This how to was written by Jeff Fullford.

This page last updated Wed Oct 18 23:14:43 CDT 2006

This documents concerns my notes during and after the installation of new Bosch injectors, part number 0 432 193 635 in my 2002 Dodge Ram quad-cab, shortbed automatic with 82000 miles. For initial information, I used installation instructions found on the TDR, plus the factory service manual. While I may repeat some of this info, I will try to stay with my experiences (which duplicate many of the same expressed on the TDR).

Tools:

19mm wrenches	short and standard length open-end or flarenut (line); we got away with just the open-end wrenches as my set only went to 18mm.
19mm "Crowfoot" wrench	for the high-pressure "line-nuts"; used to torque these
Bent needle-nose pliers	used for prying up on the manifold bolt you have screwed into the top of your injector. Mine were fairly long
Torque Wrench(s)	I had both an inch-pound and a foot-pound version. Note that the "click type" works very well for the tight clearances you will have to endure.
Ratchet set/breaker bar	you can get away with just a 3/8" set, metric and standard, with a couple of small and medium extensions. The bolts that hold down the engine hook are very tight-we used an 18" piece of pipe over the ratchet handle. A ? ratchet set for the smaller bolts is useful but not necessary
Small screwdriver	not a jeweler's but what may be referred to as a "pocket" screwdriver
Special Tool 8456	Also know as Mike or Jeff or "insert your name here". Sort of an all-purpose tool, sometimes very useful and sometimes very annoying. Requires beer and food for proper maintenance

Injector install

Removed the battery negative cables(both of them). ?" socket/wrench.-as per the factory manual.
Removed the mounting bolts for the dipstick and intake manifold (10mm bolts). Remove the intake hose (11mm or 7/16" deepwell or wrench). Move the intake and/or grid heater out of the way. Reuse the intake gasket if it is still in good shape (ours was). Stick a rag in the intercooler tube. DD/TDR
Loosened and removed most of the injection line clamps (8mm). We did these one at a time, but you can do them all at once if you mark where they go back on.
Removed the rear engine hook (15mm). It would be nice if you had a gorilla helping you at this point. If not, use a extension tube on your ratchet/breaker bar (piece-O-pipe).
Removed the valve cover (10mm). This, by far, was the hardest part of the job. There is practically no clearance on my truck to do this (we later discovered that my cohort's 99 longbed had about ? inch more clearance than mine to the top of the firewall overhang). We removed it from the passenger side, after bending the heater hoses out of the way(quite a bit of bending) and maneuvering it back and forth, front and back, side to side, with (2) people (remember the Special Purpose Tool?). It took us-after the bolts were removed (except for the last 2)--5 to10 minutes of wrangling. Most of this was probably a learning experience. I definitely think we could do this now in 4-9 minutes. In contrast, when we adjusted the valves in the 99 longbed, it took only a couple of minutes to get the cover off.
Loosen all the injector line nuts (19mm) and back off the one you are currently working on. We used an open-end wrench, but would have used a line wrench had we had it. Note that for the last injection line nut we used an open-end "stubby" 19mm wrench.
	Using the small screwdriver, carefully pry the gray fuel deliver tube out an inch or so(enough to get it away from the injector). It took very little prying to do this. Keep this area very clean!
Remove the injector bar/clamp (8mm). You just need to remove the front bolt and the bar/clamp will slide out. Leave the rear "bolt/holder" in place.
	Screw in one of the 10mm bolts removed from the intake into the top of the injector. Using a pair of long needle-nose pliers, gently pry upward on the bolt, using the rocker arm area as the pivot point. It may take a bit of prying; after the first one is out, you will know what to expect. Be sure the copper washer comes out with the injector; if not, be sure to fish it out.
Oil up the O-ring on the new injector and install it, being sure that the injector fuel "feed hole" is pointed towards the injector lines and the new copper washer is in place. We used the injector hold down clamp to help with prying the injector down into position. Install the clamp hold-down bolt finger tight but don't torque it down at this time.
Push the fuel delivery tube back in and screw in the 19mm injector line nuts finger tight. At this point, Diesel Dynamics recommends torquing the injector hold-down clamp and the injector line nut in 2 or 3 steps, going back and forth between them. We actually didn't do this, just putting them both on finger tight, then torquing the clamp to 89 inch-pounds, followed by the 19mm line nut to 28 foot-pounds. Note that Cummins says that the injector line nut torque is critical. We used a 19mm open-end, "crowfoot" wrench and a "click" type torque wrench.
Re-install/tighten the injection line clamp (8 foot-pounds). Now go ahead and do the rest of the injectors. Note that we couldn't get a torque wrench on the last injection line nut-best guess with a short open-end wrench.
Install the valve cover (another struggle but a bit faster than taking it off). Be sure to put the back bolt in before installing it-you can't get it in once the cover is in place. We reused the gasket. Starting in the center, and in a "circular" pattern, tighten the bolts-in 2 or 3 steps-to 18 foot-pounds.
Install the engine hook (57 foot-pounds) if you want; we left mine off.
Install the grid heater (if you removed it), intake manifold and dipstick mount, torquing the bolts to 18 foot-pounds.
Re-install the intercooler tube (11mm or 7/16") wrench or deepwell socket.
Reconnect the battery cables. Prime the system by starting the lift pump without starting the truck. This is done by just "bumping" the starter but not starting. Leave the key on for 20 seconds or so, then turn it off. Repeat this process 2 or 3 more times.
Start the truck. It may take a bit more cranking, and it will run rough with smoke for a while, but should clear up in a short time.