Jacobs Exhaust Brake^TM Kit (eBrake) how to.

This how to was written by Michael Hughes.

When I was laid off from Bridge Info, two of my real good friends, as a "going away" gift, got a Jacobs Exhaust Brake^TM Kit for me.

Contents of Kit

	Pneumatic group
Wire harness group
	Switch group

Getting the eBrake ready for intall.

	I needed to drill and tap the eBrake for my post-turbo tempature probe. Here I have drilled a pilot hole on one of the two flat areas that are casted onto the eBrake.
After the pilot hole, I drilled the 7/16 hole.
	I still had the tape on the tap from previous EGT probe install, so I tapped down to it.
Here is the hole tapped and ready for the bushing and tempature probe.

Installing the eBrake.

	The first thing I did was to remove the air box. Since I already had installed the EGT probes (see EGT/Boost how to.) I had to remove the post turbo probe. After removing the bushing out of the old elbow, I did a test fit of the bushing in the eBrake. I found that I needed to tap a bit deeper.
I then removed the elbow. I found that if you loosen the clamp bolt cloeset to the engine from the under side first, the other bolt is easier to break loose.
	Here is the eBrake installed. Follow the instalation booklet on tighting the (5) bolts that hold the eBrake to the turbocharger.

Pneumatic solenoid installation.

	Before you start this part of the install, remove the insulation from the passenger side of the plenum. The installation manual says to cut 8" off.
I made a copy of the pattern page in the installation manual. I had my wife hold the pattern in place while I used a hole punch to mark where the holes were to be drilled.
	I drilled 1/4" pilot holes.
Here are the (4) 1/2" holes for the well nuts. After drilling the 1/2" holes, I used a round file to remove any burs.
	Here the (4) well nuts are installed.
Here is the solenoid assembly. Make sure you follow the installation manual for the orientation of the mounting plate. Note that Fig.10 shows "Insert"; this is the "Well nut" and is shown in the wrong direction. Make sure you use "pipe sealant" on all the pipe threads. I installed the bolt as instructed in the installation manual. But I found that it was going to take a long time to screw it in with an open end wrench. I turned the fitting 45 degrees so that it was pointing straight out. I could then use a socket on it.
	Here is the solenoid assembly installed. You can just make out that the fitting needs to be turned back 45 degrees (before you moved it for easier access) in this picture.
After installing the solenoid assembly, I ran the hose from the solenoid to the eBrake. This hose connects to the left side of the solenoid. I put the hose on the eBrake first and slid the clamp down the hose to the eBrake. I then connected it to the solenoid.
	Here is the solenoid with the hoses and wiring all connected.

Wiring installation.

	After getting everything in the engine compartment done, it was time to install the wiring in the cab. The first thing to do is run the wiring through the firewall. I have done this a couple of times now, and I find the following to be an easy way of doing this: Take a metal hanger, cut it apart and straighten it. From the inside of the cab, find the hood release cable. Take the hanger and push it thru the grommet so you can get at it from the engine compartment.
Now take the three wires (red, green, and yellow) and tape them to the hanger. Make sure you stagger the wires along the hanger. Now go back inside the cab and pull the wires through. It helps if you have someone pushing the wires from the engine compartment side.
	After pulling the wires through, you need to install them in the supplied connector. I have included this picture to help with the wire placement. From the drawing in the instructions, it is hard to tell which way the connector is positioned.

Istalling the EOM switch.

	To install the OEM switch, you need to cut a hole in the dash. I made a copy of the template from the install manual. I took a small drill bit and drilled pilot holes thru the template.
Here are the pilot holes after the template was removed.
	Using a 5/16" drill bit, enlarge the holes.
I used a utility knife to cut the rest of the dash out. I used a straight edge to make the first couple of passes. Then you can just follow the groove. I then used a file to clean the edges up.
	It took a couple of test tries, but I got the switch to fit. If the switch is the same as the one I have, it isn't to hard to get back out if you push it all the way in.
This is the shifter switch that I made. Works pretty well and didn't cost much.

If you have any comments about this how to, please send them to Michael Hughes

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