Westach EGT/Boost gauge How-To.

This how to was written by Michael Hughes.

This page last updated Thu May 8 09:00:16 CDT 2003

I got my Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel in Oct. of 2000. It is a 1999 and had 38,000 miles on it. In Dec. 2000 I ordered a Westach Boost/EGT gauge. I was going to put just a post turbo EGT probe on the truck, but after listening to other TDR members talk, I decided to install both a pre and post turbo probe. So in Mar. 2001 I ordered my second probe. I also went to Radio Shack and got a small DPDT switch to mount next to the gauge on the A-pillar. I had already installed the pod and gauge on the A-pillar, so I had to take the A-pillar trim back off the truck so I could install the switch.

Jeff (a friend) and I installed both pre and post turbo EGT probes. We started with the post turbo probe, thinking if we messed it up, it wouldn't cost as much to replace the elbow.

Post turbo

	I removed the air box and placed a clean shop towel in the inlet to the turbo. This is to keep dirt from getting in the inlet side of the turbo. Then I picked a spot on the elbow that was going to be easy to drill and tap. I used a center punch to mark the spot for the hole. Jeff then drilled a 1/8 inch pilot hole. I wasn't sure that his cordless drill would be able to do the job, but did it without any problems.
Jeff then changed to a 7/16 inch drill to drill the final hole.
	After I cleaned the hole of burrs, Jeff tapped the hole using a 1/4 inch NPT tap. Here Jeff is cleaning the threads with the tap. The piece of tape is to tell us when to stop. After tapping the hole, I placed the bushing in to see if it went in far enough. We hadn't gone far enough, so Jeff had to tap the hole a little further. You want the bottom of the bushing to be flush with the inside of the elbow or manifold.
Here is the bushing installed with high temperature anti-sieze.
	Before we started on the pre turbo probe, I loosened the nuts that hold the turbo to the manifold. I then placed a piece of cardboard between the manifold and turbo. I cut the cardboard in a T-shape so the studs would hold the cardboard in place. This is to keep metal chips from getting in the turbo.
To locate the hold on the manifold, I measured two inches from the gasket surface toward the engine and 5/8 inch from the center of the manifold. I again used a center punch to mark the spot. As with the post turbo hold, Jeff used a 1/8 inch bite and then a 7/16 inch bit. Jeff held the drill and I checked to see if he was at the right angle to the manifold. You can just see the hole in this picture.
	Seeing that the manifold was about the same thickness that the elbow was, Jeff used the same depth gauge (tape on the tap) as we did on the elbow.
After installing the bushing, I started the engine and let it run for a couple of seconds to blow out any shavings.
	Here is a picture of the completed installation.

Wiring

	Since the thermocouples are part of a differential temperature system, the cold side of the probe (the end of the wires) needs to be in the cab to get the best readings. I found that the easiest way to do this was to run the wires in just left of the throttle cable (looking from the engine side of the firewall). Do not cut the wires that are attached to the probe. You can add to the wire using the small sockets and 18ga wire.
Since the gauge is mounted on the A-pillar and the wires come past the fuse panel, I got my power from fuse 8 (key on power) and 5 (instrument lights). I had to modify two "Blade Fuse Tap" to fit into the small size blade fuses. I also put the ground wire in the fuse access area. You can just see the black wire going to the left in the picture.
	I placed the switch to the left of the gauge. I have it wired so up is the pre turbo and down is post turbo.
To be able to use one gauge with the two EGT probes, I used the DPDT switch. Here is a schematic of how I did the wiring. Click on the schematic to see a large image.

Boost

On my 1999 Ram, the "TEST" port for boost is a 3/4 inch NPT. There is a plug in the port that you will have to remove. Look on this page at number 8, the test port is to the left of it. You will need a 1/2 inch drive extension and a ratchet. If your truck is new, you should be able to take the plug out without any problem. If your truck is like mine ( 40,000+ miles ), you might need to warm the engine up before trying to remove the plug. Once you have the plug out, install the 3/4 inch NPT to 5/8 inch NPT bushing, then the 5/8 inch NPT to 1/8 inch NPT bushing. Then the 1/8 inch NPT to hose fitting. Make sure to use some pipe joint compound on the bushings and the fitting. Here is a picture of the two bushings, fitting and the hose in the "TEST" port next to the boost sensor for the ECM.

I ran the hose thru the grommet for the hood release cable. I took a coat hanger and poked it thru from under the dash. I used black tape and taped the hose to the coat hanger on the cab side. I then pulled from the engine side. If you look close at the picture just left of center, you can see the hose, it then goes up the the left top.

If you have any comments about this how to, please send them to Michael Hughes

Page hit count 26005